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Theparameter defined as the ratio of significant wave height to mean water depth is a key parameter in parametric wave models and much effort has been devoted to investigate its evolution in the surf zone. Indeed, it has been long believed that this parameter is constant in the inner surf zone. In this paper, we show the variability of this parameter in the inner surf zone and then, we examine the parameters, which control theevolution in the surf zone of both a linear and a barred beach. Mots cles : approche in situ, parametre

Paramétrisation de l’énergie des vagues en zone de surf interne : profil de plage plane et profil de plage à barres