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La résolution de l'équation (2) s'effectue sur le domaine représenté sur la figure 1 : où v, le terme de frottement, qui fait intervenir le coefficient de Chezy CI caractéristique des fonds étudiés s'écrit [1] : Pour les cas rencontrés en pratique, où il existe un frottement sur le fond lié aux contraintes de cisaillement, l'équation (1) devient: Abstract Protective structures in the coastal zone can be studied by means of numerical models These describe the refraction and diffraction effects of the swell. We propose ta present a diffraction-refraction model (software PORLIN) able ta simulate the propagation of the swell in a harbour or near a shore, in presence of any protective structure. The model solves the Berkhoff equation with a Finite Element Method. Boundary conditions of reflexion or absorption type are imposed on a beach, a bank or a piero Particular structure such as wave breaker are introduced in the domain. The wave breakers influence is taken into account by means of a trans/er function. The latter match the inner and outer potential of the computational domain. The transfer function is initially determined experimentaly (wave tank) or analytically. Applications are presented here and con cern the protection of the Sablettes beach (Var), with different protective structures.

Modélisation de l'influence des atténuateurs de houle sur la protection du littoral