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The Gulf of St. Lawrence is an enclosed elongate body of water defined by the coasts of Labrador and Newfoundland on the north and northwest and, shorelines of New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island and Cape Breton Island to the south. It has a maximum southwest-northeast extent of 790 km and an east-west extent of 320 km. The Gulf is connected to the Atlantic via two narrow straits the Strait of Belle Isle to the northwest and Cabot Strait to the east but the important waves are generated within the Gulf rather than entering from the open ocean via these straits. The rapid erosion of the soft red sandstone cliffs of Prince Edward Island and parts of New Brunswick, and the continual modification of the sand dune and barrier island systems, testify to the effectiveness of these wave systems, which tend to be concentrated on particular stretches of coastline due to wave refraction in the southern part of the Gulf. South of a line joining the Magdalen Islands and the Gasp£ peninsula the sea floor shelves rapidly and there is a relatively complicated submarine topography. Because of the size of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, swell, as seen on open ocean coasts, is not such an important factor. The waves are mostly a function of winds produced by storms and low pressure systems passing across the Gulf or along the eastern seaboard of Nova Scotia. An analysis of wind directions and speeds at Summerside, Prince Edward Island, which may be taken as typical, reveals two important wind regimes. The prevalent winds blow from between south and northwest, accounting for 58 per cent of total wind directions, but only 40 per cent of maximum wind speeds for each month. The strongest winds come from between north and east southeast. The significance of this pattern is that the prevalent winds are offshore on the open Gulf sandy coasts of New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island, and that there are many periods when wave action is relatively light. However, the strongest winds, though less frequent, blow over long fetches generating the dominant waves, which are of low frequency but large magnitude.

A Note on Wind and Wave Conditions in the Southern Gulf of St. Lawrence