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Around 1300, horizontal bands appear on cloths-of-gold produced in Central Asia and the Mediterranean. They are a further embellishment to the silk panel and are woven in from selvage to selvage where they either interrupt or superimpose the pattern repeat. As the cloths-of-gold were considered treasured trade objects, most found their way to Europe and functioned there as liturgical vestments, grave furnishings, or reliquaries. As a consequence of this object transfer, the knowledge about the original function of these bands has been lost. Using the two horizontal bands on the silks Ia and Ib, part of the dalmatic and tunicella of the so-called vestments of Henry II (d. 1024), this presentation seeks to determine where and in which interval these horizontal bands appeared on a cloth-of-gold and what the original function of these bands in an Ilkhanid dress possibly was.

Inscribed Horizontal Bands on Two Cloth-of-Gold Panels and Their Function as Part of an Īlkḫānid Dress