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Coastal zone protection is a very crucial issue in order to defend populations and infrastructures as well as to environment conservation. Adequate tools must be tested and implemented for supporting engineering solutions to face this challenge. In this study, 1DH and 2DH models were applied to simulate wave hydrodynamics at Ofir beach, NW Portugal. For this purpose, COULWAVE (1DH) and BOUSS-2D (2DH) models were implemented considering both the presence of a detached breakwater and natural conditions aiming the study of the impact of these structures on the significant wave height and the wave energy. A comparison of the performance of the two models was also developed. The methodology adopted in this research work, where a generalised methodology of models applications was used, allows its replication to other coastal stretches being this application dependent on local environmental conditions.

Comparison of 1DH and 2DH Mathematical Models for Modelling Wave Hydrodynamics in Ofir Beach