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Pretendo compreender como surge o costureiro, de que forma passa a atuar como arbitro da moda. Parto do pressuposto que, apos a Revolucao Francesa, o costureiro passa a ocupar o lugar do rei: deixam de existir as leis suntuarias e entram e cena as colecoes de outono e inverno.Se o rei se utiliza do cerimonial e da etiqueta para potencializar sua imagem soberana, o costureiro tambem constroi-se, inventa-se. Por isso, proponho uma analise para a construcao que o costureiro Rui Spohr faz de si a partir de alguns de seus retratos, imagens representativa de sua atuacao em um campo social e simbolico, relacionado ao universo da moda e suas dinâmicas. Palavras-chave: Moda. Imagem. Cultura Visual. ABSTRACT This article investigates how the couturer beame a kind of arbiter, who determines what is beautiful, what is elegant, what is fashion. After the French Revolution, the couturier occupies the king's place. The sumptuary laws cease to exist and the autumn and winter collections take place.. If the king uses ceremonial and etiquette to enhance his sovereign image, the couturier also invents himself. I tpropose a look at the construction-or invention-of Rui Spohr using some of his portraits, images that represent the social na symbolical fashion environment. Keywords: Fashion. Image. Visual Culture .

AFINAL, QUAL É O PAPEL DO COSTUREIRO? DA IMAGEM DO REI AOS RETRATOS DE RUI SPOHR