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Fluid motions of waves interact with bed materials mainly through the bottom shear stress caused by water particle velocity near the bottom, which leads to topographical changes. The altered bottom profile, in turn, affects the wave fields, and changes in these fields can lead sequential bottom profile change. Most of the studies on the sediment problems, however, have not considered the effects of the altered bottom profile on wave fields. To predict topographical changes more accurately, the changed bottom profile should be reflected in calculation of wave fields over time, i.e., the two-way method is required. In this study, a numerical model considering dynamic interactions between wave fields and topography change caused by on-offshore sediment transports is proposed to estimate the topographic change of gravel beaches. The model is composed of a wave model and a sediment model. Comparison between numerical and existing experimental results showed that the present model is useful to simulate wave fields and beach topographical change of gravel beaches.

A STUDY ON TIME DOMAIN ANALYSIS OF GRAVEL BEACH DEFORMATION CONSIDERING INTERACTION BETWEEN WAVE AND BED MATERIALS