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Wave presseures out of the surf zone are estimated by the maximum wave height corresponding to 1.8 times of significant wave heights according to Rayleigh theory. On the other hand, maximum wave heights for extreme waves increase under the effects of nonlinear four-wave interactions. Therefore, it is necessary to evaluate the effects on wave pressures of the deviation from Rayleigh distribution under extreme wave conditions. As results of the physical experiments and numerical simulations, it is possible to estimate wave pressures with the deviation from Rayleigh distribution if the occurrence frequency of maximum wave heights is considered.

Characteristics of Wave Pressure with Occurrence Frequency of Maximum Wave Heights