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Some museums and private collectors in Europe, the United States, and Australia are proud owners of so-called “kain Sembiran”, archaic-looking, striped cotton wrappers with a predominantly patterned centre. This part shows geometrical or stylised floral patterns which are executed with a thick gold thread in supplementary weft technique, and seldom – interspersed with simple weft ikat stripes. This was a good reason for thoroughly investigations of this category of textiles.1 As I will show, genuine Sembiran cloth turned out to be of a completely different style than hitherto labelled “kain Sembiran”.

The Textiles of Sembiran