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Between 1910 and 1930, urbanization, changing gender roles, and increased culinarystandardization and commercialization led Americans to lament the demise of homecooking. Gone, they claimed, were large country kitchens, run by full-time housewives,serving home-baked bread and made from scratch pies. In a successful publicitycampaign in the 1920s, the restaurant industry capitalized on this discontent by promisingto restore to the nation a sense of nineteenth-century domesticity. With hearty foods,matronly servers, and cozy d9cor, they recreated the aura of a nostalgic premodernkitchenthe very institution that they had helped to destroy. In the 1930s and 40s,restaurants would continue to attract patrons by promising to revitalize traditional genderroles and domestic relationships. In one of the great ironies of the modern socialexperience, Americans were lured into restaurants by promises of home.

Just Like Home: "Home Cooking" and the Domestication of the American Restaurant