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The last decade has seen large-scale cultural changes in the table grape and wine production industriesof the Kōfu Basin in Yamanashi Prefecture. From the perspective of wineries, the recent rise in popularityof wines produced from the Koshu grape ( Vitis vinifera  var.  orientalis ) hassecured their industrial recovery in the short term. This paper explores these changes, thereby contributingto the literature on the invention of traditions for economic profit and rural revitalization. Conclusions aredrawn from archival research, interviews with stakeholders in the table grape and wine industries, and overone and one-half years as a grape farmer in the Kōfu Basin. Rather than significant improvements ineducational or technical advancement in growing Koshu for wine or even wine production, the rise inpopularity of wines produced from Koshu is argued to be more linked to the cultural re-branding of thegrape based on co-produced and glocalized perceptions of simulacra in which the historical and localconsumption of Koshu wine is equated with Japanese cuisine and culture. By connecting Koshu withJapanese identity and “Japaneseness,” branded wines now provide new opportunities for conspicuousconsumption and “connoisseurship” for consumers.

Constructed heritage and co-produced meaning: the re-branding of wines from the Koshu grape