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Fourier transform (FTIR) attenuated total reflectance (ATR) and second derivative   spectroscopy has been used for the first time to evaluate the state of degradation in   historical woollen threads from the collections of Flemish tapestries (15th-17th centuries)   in the Royal Palace, Madrid, Hampton Court Palace, and museums in Brussels. The work   was performed as part of the EC-funded project ‘Monitoring of Damage in Historic   Tapestries’, also known as the MODHT project [1]. The overall aim was to develop   procedures for recognising tapestries at risk and provide analysis for informing collection   care. Prior to the testing of the historical threads, model tapestries were prepared   according to traditional techniques of weaving and dyeing. They were then subjected to   accelerated light ageing. This paper reports on the part of the MODHT project in which   ATR-FTIR was used. It was selected since it is a non-destructive method, and also   because it has previously been used to study the oxidation products of cystine in wool   and to provide a semi-quantitative assessment of change [2]. Evaluation was conducted   on the model tapestries, and the cysteic acid peak was selected as the marker for   change, as it showed a systematic change with light ageing. The same marker was used   to assess the change in historical threads.

STUDIES ON WOOLLEN THREADS FROM HISTORICAL TAPESTRIES