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People who buy anti-acne cosmetics in chemists’ shops seem to hope that the effectiveness and safety of such preparations would be higher than cosmetics available from cosmetics stores. Aim: Analysis of the composition of anti-acne cosmetics available at chemist’s with regard to the presence of active ingredients and ‘problematic’ substances, i.e. substances with potentially harmful effects (allergy, irritation). Material and methods: Cosmetics offered in chemists’ shops were included into this research based on the occurrence of the following words: ‘acne’, ‘blackhead’, ‘pimples’, ‘comedones’, ‘skin pores’, ‘anti-bacterial preparation’ in their trade names or identification (front label), or recommendations for use (back label). The compositions of the products as declared on the label were analyzed for the presence of active components and ‘problematic’ substances. As active substances were considered those with known keratolytic, bacteriostatic, seboregulatory or anti-inflammatory properties. The ‘problematic’ substances were identified with reference to the Annexes to the Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC available from the CosIng database. Results: In 50 random products included into the present study, 394 unique ingredients were identified (100%), of which 70 (18%) were categorized as active, and 59 (15%) as ‘problematic’ substances. Active substances most commonly present in the products were salicylic acid (present in 34% of analysed products), allantoin (32%) and zinc PCA (30%). The ‘problematic’ ingredients most widely used in the analysed products were the preservatives phenoxyethanol (40%) and methylparaben (38%). Only 36% of all analyzed products contained combinations of active ingredients directed against all known pathological elements of acne. Conclusions: Only one in three anti-acne cosmetics available from chemists’ shops contain active ingredients against all key elements of acne pathology. On the other hand, almost all of such preparations contain ‘problematic’ ingredients which can cause allergy or irritancy.

Kosmetyki do cery trądzikowej dostępne w aptekach: Analiza deklarowanych składników aktywnych oraz substancji potencjalnie niebezpiecznych