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A promising and practical chrome-free tanning system has been developed based on a novel Al–Zr bimetal complex tanning agent. However, to achieve satisfactory resultant leather, the retanning process that is compatible with this emerging tannage needs to be investigated systematically. This paper aims to explore the interaction between the bimetal complex tanned wet white and retanning agents. The isoelectric point (pI) of wet white was 7.2, which was nearly the same as wet blue. The electropositivity of wet white was even higher than that of wet blue during post-tanning processes, resulting in higher uptake rate of retanning agents. The distribution of various retanning agents in wet white was analyzed by pI measurement of layered leather and fluorescent tracing technique. The retanning agents were unevenly distributed throughout the cross-section, which might be an important restriction factor in obtaining satisfactory organoleptic properties of the crust leather. This fact is mainly due to the strong electrostatic interaction between anionic retanning agents and wet white. Applying a high dosage of multiple retanning agents in a proper sequence of addition benefited the full penetration of retanning agents in leather matrix and thus improved the organoleptic properties of crust leather. This work provides guidance for optimizing retanning process of the wet white leather. Graphical abstract

Interaction between retanning agents and wet white tanned by a novel bimetal complex tanning agent