Open AccessOn Kurtosis and Occurrence Probability of Freak Waves
Author(s) -
Nobuhito Mori,
Peter A. E. M. Janssen
Publication year - 2006
Publication title -
journal of physical oceanography
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
SCImago Journal Rank - 1.706
H-Index - 143
eISSN - 1520-0485
pISSN - 0022-3670
DOI - 10.1175/jpo2922.1
Subject(s) - rogue wave , kurtosis , freak , gaussian , series (stratigraphy) , mathematics , statistical physics , geology , statistics , physics , computer science , nonlinear system , quantum mechanics , paleontology , computer security
Based on a weakly non-Gaussian theory, the occurrence probability of freak waves is formulated in terms of the number of waves in a time series and the surface elevation kurtosis. Finite kurtosis gives rise to a significant enhancement of freak wave generation in comparison with the linear narrowbanded wave theory. For a fixed number of waves, the estimated amplification ratio of freak wave occurrence due to the deviation from the Gaussian theory is 50%–300%. The results of the theory are compared with laboratory and field data.
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