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GUMIERO, V. C. Development and evaluation of nanoemulsions containing babassu oil (Orbignya oleifera) and vegetable extracts (Areca catechu, Glycyrrhiza glabra e Portulaca oleracea) for after sun use. 2011. 164f. Thesis (Doctoral). Faculdade de Ciencias Farmaceuticas de Ribeirao Preto Universidade de Sao Paulo, Ribeirao Preto, 2011. Nanotechnology is applied in all science fields, including the cosmetic. Nanoemulsions are more stable than macroemulsions, have good spreadability and facilitate the active skin penetration. Babassu oil (Orbignya oleifera) is used to treat various skin disorders due to anti-inflammatory, healing and antiseptic properties. Areca catechu seed extract inhibits the collagenase and elastase production, enzymes responsible for sagging and loss of skin elasticity in aging. It also has antioxidant, anti-hyaluronidase, and melanogenesis inhibitor properties. Another extract often used in cosmetics is the Glycyrrhiza glabra roots extract. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, adstringent, antibacterial and tyrosinase inhibitor activities. Yet the portulaca (Portulaca oleracea) extract is anti-allergic, antiinflammatory, anti-irritant and healing. In this research, babassu nanoemulsions with or without extracts were developed and evaluated for physicochemical stability and biological properties as antioxidant, anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory, hydration, pH value and oily skin. The components addition order, temperature, stirring and time speed were critical in obtaining the nanoemulsions. In accelerated stability tests at 45°C, there was significant change in the droplets size, pH and electrical conductivity values at the end of 120 days. In addition, the Ostwald ripening and coalescence processes occurred simultaneous in nanoemulsions. The areca, licorice and the formulation containing this extracts showed antioxidant activity by DPPH and xanthine oxidase methods. In vitro tests of irritation, the formulations were classified as slightly irritating and non-irritating by HET-CAM and RBC methods, respectively. Both nanoemulsions showed anti-inflammatory, moisturizing characteristic, increased oiliness and none changing in the pH skin value. The results obtained suggest the safety and efficacy of these nanoemulsions after sun exposure.

Desenvolvimento e avaliação de nanoemulsões à base de óleo de babaçu (Orbignya oleifera) e extratos vegetais (Areca catechu, Glycyrrhiza glabra e Portulaca oleracea) para uso pós-sol