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Food and identity have much to do with each other. In the African context, however, food is studied through developmentalist lenses far more than through cultural ones. Therefore, we know little about the ways in which food and contemporary, particularly urban, African identities shape each other. I explore this relationship through an analysis of personal food narratives gathered as part of a four-year research project exploring food memories, values and practices in three South African cities. Meat appears frequently in these narratives, and this paper focuses on this powerful food, sandwiching data analysis between short biographical reflections that personalize the paper’s intellectual arguments. Using the metaphor of “spillage” as a tool, I show how personal narratives about meat raise questions about identity formation, sometimes surprisingly. These stories about how meat matters, help to deepen understanding of how racial identities take shape in this context. While this is important in itself, these narratives point to the entanglements between race and larger questions: about planetary health, inter-species relationships, morality and humanitude. The contribution of this paper to Food Studies is the demonstration that broader ethical questions about food, specifically meat, cannot be separated from (carefully contextualized) imaginaries and materialities of cultural identity.

Meat in black and white