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The textile sector is one of the most environmentally harmful industries in the world. From 1974-2004, trade in textiles was subject to quota-based restrictions that effectively limited global apparel production. Since these quotas were phased out in the early 2000s, global clothing production has roughly doubled. Despite this, there is currently no literature – legal or otherwise – assessing the environmental impacts of such a major change in global trade policy. This paper shows how the textile quota phase-out has enabled the ‘fast fashion’ phenomenon, and exacerbated the environmental consequences that accompany it. In addition, it assesses the legal viability of reintroducing some form of textile quotas under current international trade law. Based on this analysis, it concludes that reforms in trade-related policy and jurisprudence are urgently needed and ultimately inevitable.

The Clothes (Un)Make the Man: How the Textile Quota Phase-out Wears-out the Planet