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The characterization of fabrics after applying different degradation conditions appears to be a key factor to understand their behaviour for different applications. Depending on the treatment, morphologic and polymorphic changes may arise in the polymeric chain structure that composes textile fibers. In this paper, a systematic and comparative study between different types of natural and synthetic textile fabrics was carried out in order to shed light on the structural changes occurring under acid and alkali treatments. The natural fabric polymers studied had a cellulose-based composition from plants (cotton, linen and jute), or a protein-based one from animals (silk and wool). The synthetic fabric was polyester. Different treatment times were assessed: 15 min, 1, 2, 4, 8 and 24 h and compared to the initial condition of the fabrics (standard). In the cellulosic fabrics, the alkali provoked the polymorphic transformation of the amorphous CI into CII. However, the acid treatment did not cause any remarkable alteration in the structure. In protein fabrics, the acid treatment increased the amorphicity of the structures, leading to further degradation but not affecting the conformation of proteins, and the alkali dissolved the fabrics. Polyester was not affected by the chemical solutions (neither acid nor alkali).

Acid and alkali chemical treatments on synthetic and natural cellulosic, fibroin and keratin-based fabrics: study of structural changes