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This paper presents numerical simulations of a bichromatic wave grouppropagating and breaking over a fixed breaker bar. The simulations areperformed using a newly stabilized Reynolds-averaged Navier Stokes (RANS)two-equation turbulence closure, which solves the longstanding problem ofover-production of turbulence beneath surface waves in the nearly potentialflow region prior to breaking. This model has previously been tested onsmall-scale spilling breaking regular waves, whereas in this work focus is onfull (rather than model) scale application, wave groups (rather than regularwaves) and plunging (rather than spilling) breakers. Additionally this paperhas novel emphasis on bottom boundary layer dynamics which are very importantfor cross-shore sediment transport predictions. The model is validated bycomparing with results from a previous experimental campaign. The model isshown to predict the surface elevations, velocities and turbulence well in theshoaling and outer surf-zone, avoiding turbulence over-production and incorrectundertow structure typical of standard turbulence closures. Comparison withdetailed boundary layer measurements in the shoaling position reveals that themodel is able to accurately capture the temporal dynamics of the entire waveboundary layer, including evolution of the boundary layer thickness, velocityovershoot and phase-shifts. Comparison in the surf zone additionally revealsthat the model is able to accurately capture the transport of breaking-inducedturbulence into the wave boundary layer. The performance of the model indicatesthat it can be used directly in the simulation of cross-shore sedimenttransport and morphology and also be used to study important hydrodynamicprocesses, which can help improve the predictive skill of morphodynamic profilemodels applied in coastal engineering.

Stabilized RANS simulation of surf zone kinematics and boundary layer processes beneath large-scale plunging waves over a breaker bar