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Wind seas typically dominate over swell seas in coastal gulfs.\udWaves measured at a location having a water depth of 12 m in the near-shore\udwaters of the Gulf of Mannar during a 1-year period (1 May 2015 to 30 April 2016)\udare used to examine the predominance of wind seas and swells through spectral\udcharacterization. The study shows that even though the location is in a gulf,\udthe annual average value ( ∼  0.84 m) of the significant wave height in\udthis area is comparable to that along the coastal waters of the Indian\udsubcontinent, but the annual maximum value ( ∼  1.7 m) recorded is much\udless than that (3 to 5 m) observed in those regions. Also, large seasonal\udvariations are not observed in the wave height. The waves of the study region\udare under the control of sea breeze, with the maximum in the late evening\udhours and the minimum in the early morning hours. A 5 % increase in the\udforcing wind field during the monsoon period improved the comparison\udstatistics between the model wave height and the measured values. A total of 53 % of\udthe surface height variance in the study area is a result of swells from the\udsoutheast and south, and the remainder are wind seas from the east and\udsoutheast

Observation of dominance of swells over wind seas in the coastal waters of the Gulf of Mannar, India