English (United Kingdom)

https://curated-unify.zendy.io/wp-json/zendy-region/v1/featured_content/oa?rat=en

https://curated-unify.zendy.io/wp-json/zendy-region/v1/highlighted_journal/

Global: Zendy Plus annual

Presents the access of premium content as premium feature

Premium Content

Presents the keyphrase highlighting as premium feature

Keyphrase Highlighting

Presents the summarisation as premium feature

Summarisation

Insights

Presents the pdf analysis as premium feature

PDF Analysis

Presents the zaia usage as premium feature

ZAIA

Global: Zendy Tools annual

Global: Zendy Free Plan

Global: Zendy Tools monthly

Global: Zendy Plus monthly

Hydraulic model tests of wave deformation on the reef with steep forereef slope by using irregular waves were conducted. Two types of the reef topography were inspected. It is confirmed that wave deformation near the reef has very strong nonlinearity near the reef edge. Hydraulic jump at the wave front in times of buckrush and wave breaking in times of uprush coexist at the reef edge. Numerical model based on wave energy balance model developed by Takayama et al. (1991) was modified in order to estimate extreme wave condition inside and outside the reef. The comparison of the numerical simulation result with the experimental one demonstrates that Takayama's model improved in this study provides very good agreement with the experimental data.

Wave breaking on the reef with steep forereef slope and wave deformation model based on energy balance equation